When Hotel Gorski & Spa, the organization “I love France” and the “International Union of the Alsace Region” announced the arrival of the famous French chef Michel Husser to Kopaonik, it became clear that the local scene was awaiting an event that would push the limits of the gastronomic experience
The event “French cuisine with stars”, held in the restaurant La Pista (Gorski Hotel & Spa), combined two culinary traditions: top French standards and authentic, mountain flavors of Kopaonik.Alsace, located between France and Germany, has developed a unique culinary identity and is rightly considered the culinary capital of Europe, because there are not so many restaurants with a Michelin star anywhere – as many as 36.
For a special dinner on Kopaonik, Michel Husser and the chefs of Hotel Gorski & Spa and La Pista restaurant Stevan Pejdanovski and Filip Nišić created a six-course menu, combining traditional Alsatian recipes and Serbian ingredients – such as game, cheese and forest fruits characteristic of mountain regions.
The guests had the opportunity to experience the elegance of French techniques, Alsatian flavors and the rusticity of the Serbian terroir, while the energy in the kitchen was impressive. On this occasion, we spoke with Michel Husser in the pleasant ambience of La Pista restaurant, which is recognized as one of the best restaurants in Serbia.
How did you decide on Hotel Gorski & Spa and La Pista restaurant as the hosts of your visit to Serbia?
MH: For this visit, I relied on the suggestion of the organizers, who assured me that Kopaonik is an exceptional mountain destination. When I saw the ambience of La Pista Hotel and Restaurant, I was sure that in this region there are fantastic local ingredients that deserve to be presented in an innovative way and combined with the French classics of Alsatian cuisine.
Your restaurant “Le Cerf” has continuously had a Michelin star since 1936. What is the secret of such long success?
MH: This is an old story: the restaurant has been in my family since 1930, when my great-grandfather bought it. It received its first Michelin star in 1936, which ranks us among the oldest restaurants with a Michelin star in France, if not the oldest.
So, in 1936, my great-grandfather received that first star. Wondering how he did it? Nothing special – he was just doing his job properly. He was very serious, he loved premium staples, and I believe that’s the first thing to keep in mind if you want the stars: always get the best produce, in the best condition, and at the right time of year. “Le Cerf” has remained in our family until today. First it was run by my grandmother, then my parents, then me, and now my children continue that story.
We are very proud, because cooking well, with enough effort, is relatively easy. But the greatest satisfaction is that we have maintained the same level of quality since 1936 until today – and that is actually the most difficult thing to achieve.
You are the fourth generation chef at “Le Cerf” and the name of the restaurant also has an interesting story, right?
MH: That’s right. As for the name “Le Cerf” (The Deer), in France you have many restaurants with names like “The White Horse”, “The Red Bull” and the like. Why a deer? Because we are near the Vosges Mountains, where there are a lot of them. I believe that a similar situation exists here in Serbia. When my great-grandfather bought the restaurant, it was called “Zumirch” (“At the Deer” in German), because the region used to be a German-speaking area. Because we also had wars, and various historical (un)opportunities…
In your opinion, what makes Alsace cuisine stand out from other French regions? Is there a “best dish”?
MH: Alsace has always been a kind of transition country, so we were sometimes French, sometimes German. As I said, my restaurant was first called “Zumirch”, and the 1737 house in which the restaurant is located dates back to 1737, even before the French Revolution.
As for the “best dish”, there is no such thing – it’s all a matter of taste. Whether I’m preparing simple potatoes or a more complex dish, the principle is the same: the key is to use the highest quality food. French gastronomy emerged from different terroirs throughout the country, not only in Alsace. Each region has a specific cuisine: the south differs from the north, Brittany from Biarritz, and so on. In Alsace, among other things, a strong German influence is felt in the diet.
Choucroute (sauerkraut) is often mentioned as a symbol of Alsatian cuisine. How different is it from other varieties of sauerkraut?
MH: Choucroute is both a dish and a specific type of sauerkraut. I see that you have similar variants here. But Alsatian choucroute is prepared in a special way, with specific ingredients. I’m glad that every dish can tell a story about the region where it comes from. Choucroute was the first dish for which I became recognizable, although I make it in my own way, based on an old recipe. All my creations, including the menu we presented in La Pista, come from that Alsatian story, but I enrich them with my own creativity and curiosity.
Everything I prepare is based on what I myself would be happy to eat. I am my own chief judge. Of course, I appreciate guest feedback, but basically, it’s very personal cuisine with an eye on tradition.
What do you think of Serbian ingredients and specialties, bearing in mind that this is your first visit to our country?
MH: When I’m invited to cook somewhere, I first ask for a list of authentic ingredients from that region or at least the best products that can be found on the market. Without top-quality ingredients, there is no top-quality food. Also, I always insist on respecting the season.
Here I noticed that there are foods very similar to those in Alsace, so we were able to come up with an interesting menu. Honestly, I still don’t know Serbian specialties enough, but I liked ajvar and the way it preserves an authentic story.
In Kopaonik, in the restaurant La Pista, you have a young, pleasant and motivated team, eager to learn – which is crucial. The problem with large hotels is that, on the one hand, you have 200-300 guests to feed, and on the other, a fine dining restaurant where more sophisticated dishes are expected. And if you also have a good team of chefs and if there is cooperation between Serbian and French chefs, that can only improve the quality. It’s a win-win exchange.
How can a gastronomic experience motivate guests to explore new destinations, such as Alsace, and what would you say to chefs who aspire to a high level in this business?
MH: What I expect in return is that my menu makes guests think, “Hey, it would be interesting to visit Alsace!” Because it is an area that is really special, with good wines and a gastronomic culture because people like to go out and go to restaurants.
As far as advice is concerned, this job is very demanding, as we are constantly questioning our own professionalism. However, it is one of the most beautiful jobs when it is done honestly, without excessive “bling-bling” elements or an over-emphasized commercial approach. When people work with a pure heart, the feedback from guests is so valuable that you don’t think of giving up. The greatest joy is to see those “stars in the eyes” while sitting at the table and enjoying the food. After a hard day’s work, it gives me back positive energy, which, for sure, many other jobs cannot provide. I want the guests to enjoy themselves, to like what we prepare for them and, through this gastronomic story, maybe interest them in discovering Alsace.
How important are these international meetings and exchanges of experiences for you as a chef?
MH: Extremely important. I believe that every chef should explore new regions, ingredients and techniques. It contributes to the development of both our work and the local scene. When chefs from two different traditions meet, new, often very creative ideas are born.
La Pista: A Mountain Gastronomic Gem
La Pista is an exclusive à la carte restaurant of Italian cuisine within the Gorski Hotel & Spa. Although prestigious restaurants are usually found in larger cities, La Pista stands out as a unique gastronomic destination at an altitude of 1,770 meters. It is a rare example of a restaurant at that height becoming an indispensable place for lovers of top cuisine. Conceived as a journey through Italian tastes, for the third year in a row it has been recognized in the Gault & Millau guide as one of the best restaurants in Serbia.
Text: David Zelenkapić
Photo: Mihailo Erović